Thu Nov 28, 2013 12:16 am
The reality is a knife used in the field would be useless with a 30k finish. Roll up some old sweat shirts or denim and try slicing with different edges. You will find that much past 1k and the edge slides off the media.
When it comes to folding knives and combat knives a coarse edge around 300-600 grit is going to be best.
Thu Nov 28, 2013 1:15 am
While I have no experience with combat knives (nor do I want any! lol) some of my pocket knives with carbon blades (and higher carbon stainless) can get an arm hair shaving edge off of a 600 grit diamond stone and a strop. Nothing I would want to shave my face with mind you! lol Some of my cheaper knives where the stainless just can't take that kind of edge will get sharp but they won't shave even at 1200 and with a shiny bevel, but a 600 grit edge can be very respectable and works great for utility purposes regardless. Two that I carry on me at all times have a 600 grit edge finished with a couple of loaded strops to smooth them out a bit. Works great on cardboard, zip ties, tie straps, tape, normal everyday stuff. Also works well for stripping insulation of the end of CAT 5 cable as well. lol I prefer it over the built-in razor blade stripper on the crimpers.
Thu Nov 28, 2013 10:20 am
Sadden wrote:I use my knives with a 30k + edges all the time. Something that fine is easy to touch up.
And with something that fine I'm sure your touching up a lot.
Thu Nov 28, 2013 3:22 pm
Not as often as one might think. An edc normally sees a touchup once a month. Just be clear lets remember that we arent talkking about chefs knives that work all day.
Even when it does come time for a touchup it takes more time to set the angle on my EPP than it takes to do the touchup.
The OP can put whatever edge on his knives that he wants. I just tried to get him there in a more economical fashion while handling the steels mentioned in a superior way.
Tue Dec 03, 2013 11:42 pm
If you can sharpen the knives for the guys in the mess hall you might make some friends...hopefully you don't have to eat only MRE stuff. yuck.
Fri Dec 06, 2013 5:18 pm
You really don't need the 500. Going from 320 to 1k is not too big of a jump. You may want to consider 320, 1k, 3k and a strop with good compound. I on Shapton Glass Stones in 320, 1k, 2k, 4k, and 8k. You will need a lapping plate.
Fri Dec 06, 2013 6:43 pm
I'm going to go with a recommendation closest to Mark's
Get an Atoma 140 - a bit more but lighter and more rugged. It's the best diamond plate available and you need a solid low end. I'd recommend the Bamboo 150, but it's too big for portabliity. It's a brick but great for the rough stuff and works great with the Atoma 140.
The thing is most of the knives you will get will be beat up and need some serious grinding - chips and tips, no edge left etc. Just getting any edge on the knife is your first concern.
It's tough to beat the glassstones for portability and splash and go. Skip the 30k and go for the rest. You could skip the 16k too and go for 0.75 micron CBN on a strop. This is a 24k strop - perfect for touchups even if you are going from a 4k edge but best from an 8 or 16k edge. I have just shipped Mark some Kangaroo and nanocloth 3x8" strops backed with Balsa and a magnetic backing. This is light and would be perfect for your environment. This will be particularly nice for your abrasion resistant steels but also work well on a wide variety of steels
Get the stoneholder Mark suggests.
Also have a sharpie and a small magnifying loupe. This will get you making better edges quicker.
FINALLY, THANK YOU for your service!!
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