Only if you actually cut past the cladding line will that matter, Jason. Most clad knives can be sharpened 50/50 well past the cladding line, but when you go asymmetric you can hit one side of the soft cladding. SO, to those of you reading that want to sharpen past the cladding on a knife, remember to stay closer to 50/50 if you can.
Here's the problem I'm seeing: Consistency between 2 users.
YOU sharpened the knife, HE did not. HE has no idea what angle you used, and is using diamond which can easily reset the bevel to whatever or destroy the edge altogether.
I blame the other user if you were able to get it sharp, beyond that you either have the edge too steep and it is failing, or it needs thinning because he is losing the edge then has no bevel left to work with. A thin bevel can still do some work as the apex of the edge loses sharpness. If he didn't complain about performance at first then I'd opt to say the knife is too thin right now, but no way to tell without seeing it I suppose. 70/30 sharpening tends to make a thinner edge.
My opinion to remedy the problem: I would simply add a micro-bevel around 2k and see how he likes that. If the knife doesn't perform to his satisfaction although it keeps an edge, then it will need thinning..... and a micro bevel. AND, depending on the steel I'd opt for closer to a 50/50 edge for strength.