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Fri Apr 25, 2014 4:34 pm
My experience with reactivity echoes that of everyone above. My Tojiro ITK's cladding continues to be pretty reactive, however, I have gotten very good at keeping it at bay.
Reactivity aside, the real big difference IMO is the profile. The Yamashin, a flatter KS style profile, while the Tojiro has a more classic gyuto profile. (Full disclosure: I have not handled the Yamashin)
Thu May 01, 2014 4:09 pm
I had "wait a minute" moment the other day when i was using my Zwilling J.A. Henckels Twin Cuisine. These handle are way more like traditional Japanese handles then western handles. starting to think of switching my search to a western style handle instead.
Thu May 01, 2014 4:24 pm
IMHO, handles are pretty darn subjective - what you like is what YOU like. Moreover, in a pinch grip, there isn't a ton of difference to me between yo and wa, other than a D shape wa (I am a lefty). It isn't a deal breaker, but on my two knives with D handles, I sanded down the hump. Other than that, they don't feel much different. If it were me, I would focus on type, length, metal, profile and aesthetics and not worry so much about the handle. But that is just me. If you are up for a yo, you might have a better selection at the lower price range, but I don't know about under $50.
If you are going with yo handle udner $50, Adam Marr's recommendation might be your only shot.
If you can bump up to $100 with yo, I would look at the Hiromoto petty. Aogami super at a good price. I have tried their gyuto and really like it, especially considering the price and steel. The Kikuichi elite is another consideration, but I don't know much about that line, so I will bow out.
If you are willing to consider stainless with yo, Suisin Inox comes in at $80. Also tried this gyuto and like it more than I thought. Somewhat like VG10, maybe a little more wear resistant.
Thu May 01, 2014 6:44 pm
i think if i get that high in price range i would get away from what i want this knife to be. Also, if i went up to $100 i would be looking really hard at the Kohetsu Blue #2 Gyuto 210mm
Fri May 02, 2014 1:10 am
In that case... Go up to $100, you won't be disappointed you did
Fri May 02, 2014 6:08 pm
acacia987 wrote:i think if i get that high in price range i would get away from what i want this knife to be. Also, if i went up to $100 i would be looking really hard at the Kohetsu Blue #2 Gyuto 210mm
I totally understand. But as you see from this page, http://www.chefknivestogo.com/150mmpettys.html
[pettys 150-165] and this page http://www.chefknivestogo.com/120mmpettys.html
[pettys 120-135], there are only 3 knives I see in 135-150 that are under $50, and one is out of stock. So that leaves you with the Fuji that AM listed, and the ITK. So you are kinda out of luck unless you want to raise your range. To $100 does give you a bit more options, but you are gonna find the majority of 150 pettys in the $100-$150 range (this is a rough gauge, but I think it is pretty accurate).
IMHO, what Jeff B said is very true.
Also, I have If you are okay with the 120 length, that Yashamin will have less issues than the ITK as SteveG mentioned. You might also peek at the Yashamin ko yanagi (really a slightly longer petty at 165). I don't have any experience with this line - I going by customer reviews and other postings on these knives I have seen.
Sat May 03, 2014 4:21 pm
I just wanted to support Steve's thoughtful advice: considering blade height in relation to developing sharpening experience is a very good idea. I would consider this as a very important consideration, given that you are opting to learn how to sharpen to ultimately take care of a taller, longer knife. Feeling the angles is very different depending on blade height. Further more, some knives – like my Tojiro petty, which is not that far off from a Hiromoto in dimension or style, is not very good to practice on because of the thickness of the shoulder due to cladding—this is more pronounced on some of these cheaper petties, I think, than on the gyuto versions of these knives. Having a good, tall, clean edge with a thin shoulder will help you focus on getting cleaner angles and even practicing more practical thinning and profile adjustment as you would on a gyuto.
Sat May 03, 2014 9:18 pm
I too have the tojiro itk 150 petty. I have to agree with the others here. The itk was so reactive I was in shock when I started using it. It went through several shades of color right before my eyes using it over a few minutes. It puts out a pretty strong smell that I didn't care for, I thought its the White #2 but later found out that its the cladding that was highly reactive, the white #2 edge was quite alright, wasn't as reactive as the cladding. My initial thoughts were what have I done? and I hate carbon. On the other hand liked the handle. Its unfinished wood but when it gets wet the fibre rises and it makes it more grippy. I didn't bother to oil the handle or anything cos its a disposable project knife. Spine and choil needs sanding. I was able to soften and scrub the koruochi finish off with a scotch brite pad after leaving it in lime juice for an hour.
It does take on a wicked sharp edge. After a patina has formed on the cladding its less reactive but still stinks a little.
I just saw the yamashin funayuki SteveG recommended above and looked at it in the link. If I were to do it again I would go with the Yamashin.
Edit: Glad I stuck it out with carbon cos I just got my second carbon knife, the kohetsu blue #2 with the advice from SteveG and Taz and I love it, will probably write a review later but right now I'm very pleased with it. The day I received the itk petty I was thinking i'll never get another carbon knife again!
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