I wonder why you care what the factory edge is ground at? Not to mention, the answer would be approximate & actual edge angles would vary.
The TKC steel is a proprietary blend much like Konosuke HD steel... elemental ratios are guarded.
I suggest you sharpen to many different angles to determine what fits your knife skills as well as pertinent utility. You and/or your application might be able to handle a 12 degree bevel, you might chip a 12 degree bevel; you'll never know until you practice the art. Start at 20 and work down if you need a cookie cutter approach... You have to find the balance between acute enough to perform well, and obtuse enough to retain durability... implementing microbevels is down the road, if ever.
Rick wrote:"Not to mention that learning by actually doing, and seeing how your results work in the real world will make you a better sharpener, while following a "cookbook" approach will not.
And in the end, there is no "cookbook", as the answer is, "It depends". It's like the answer to the question, "When do you sharpen your knives?" The answer is, "When they are dull", but the definition of 'dull' varies according to the individual. The 'best' angle to put on a particular blade depends so much on the skills of the person that is to use it so as to make any answer expressed in degrees meaningless. If you can't push cut without torquing the blade, an angle of twenty degrees will chip, but if you know what you are doing, ten degrees may be the 'best'."
You want to change your cutting edge geometry, by all means go ahead. In fact, I just suggested you do, every sharpening until you find a balance, but I don't suggest reprofiling your knife.
Stones are a preferential thing, but pretty much every stone on CKTG is a quality performer. JNats are a rabbit hole, and TKC steel will take as far a finish as you want to go really, but finishing in the 5k range offers fantastic utility. If you wanna step up to 8k-10k, the steel will take it... if you want that refined an edge. If I remember correctly, you already purchased your stone set.
Maintenance: It's semi-stainless. Keep it clean & dry. You don't have to be nearly as vigilant as with fully reactive steel, but don't let liquid rest on it for extended periods of time, or it will leave a stain. Not really a rust like a carbon, but it will leave a mark. It will develop a patina; it is natural & suggested. You can polish it out if you so desire.
A honesuki is a real niche knife, but if you want one knife for one low use purpose... there's your ticket. It takes getting used to, but it is very effective in its purpose. The Shun Blue Steel is nice and small & really has amazing f&f if that's your thing: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/shblst4ho.html
The Konosuke HD is basically a single bevel & is - as all HD's are - from the g-ds: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/kohd15wa.html
The Masamoto VG is a stainless workhorse: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/masamoto-boning-knife.html
ANY high Hrc steel is prone to chipping... particularly when boning.