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Sun Dec 08, 2013 3:18 am
Hopefully I'm not cluttering up the board too much with my threads!
Have finally narrowed it down to these two. A couple of questions:
For the Katsushige, is the entire blade carbon/reactive or only the edge? Will the dark finish on the main portion of the blade wear off, or easily scratched?
For the Tanaka I assume the entire blade is reactive?
There seems to be a pretty significant difference in weight between the two - would the Tanaka be considered a "laser"? I'm a noob, so durability is def a concern.
Site mentions the blade on the Tanaka is sharp, how about for the Anryu? Since I'll be doing my sharpening practice on cheaper knives, I prefer to get something that won't need much touch up for a month or two.
Sun Dec 08, 2013 5:01 am
The Tanaka is laser thin behind the edge, but thicker than most lasers at the spine and has an awesome grind. I haven't had any durability issues with it, even going through sweet potatoes and squash. When I first got it, I went from August to the next Spring with only stropping it on Boron Carbide 1micron on Balsa. Each time I did that, it would stick into the board for a week or so; I am a home cook and it didn't get a ton of use, but the edge holding was impressive for the amount of use that it did receive.
I have only seen the Hammered Anryu, which has stainless dimpled cladding. It is definitely thicker behind the edge than the Tanaka and cuts differently. Not sure about the KU version in terms of thickness, sharpness or the longevity of the Kurouchi finish.
Sun Dec 08, 2013 9:29 pm
Thanks again Taz.
Anybody else have any experience with the Kuruochi finish? Is there a way to touch up (or get rid of!) the finish if it gets worn/scratched? Or is this something that I shouldn't be worrying about?
Sun Dec 08, 2013 10:24 pm
I have seen two types of Kurouchi finishes, one is basically fused with the knife steel, the other is basically painted. The one fused on seems bulletproof. The painted on variety is very durable, mine did not scratch with normal use, but I sanded it off as part of a project. The finish came off easily and left a nice, shinny, but pitted in a rustic way, surface. In most cases kurouchi finishes protect carbon steel beneath so if it is removed be prepared to care for the reactive steel below.
I do not have experience with either of the two knives you are looking at, but I own a Tanaka Kurouchi and the Anryu Hammered. The Anryu was more expensive and performs accordingly, but they are both awesome knives. I would not hesitate to own another knife from either maker. The Anryu looks a bit heavier, for a noobie I might lean that way, but that's not a hard and fast rule.
Mon Dec 09, 2013 4:44 am
The Tanaka Sekiso performs much differently than the Tanaka KU; the Sekiso will outcut the Anryu when I compared them. The Tanaka cuts more like a laser (little resistance while cutting) with a midweight feel and good food release, the Anryu cuts and feels more like a workhorse.
Mon Dec 09, 2013 2:18 pm
I have the Anryu Hammered 240 and a Tanaka Sekiso gyuto. Both are great performing knives. The Tanaka is a little taller blade than the Anryu and is a little lighter in weight. It has a laser like edge and nice convex to the blade. The Tanaka is an all carbon blade including the Damascus cladding however I find it easy to care for , just keep a towel handy and wipe it dry after use. The same care would apply to the Anryu or any other carbon blade. The Sekiso slowly gets a nice blue patina but I do not find it overly reactive. The geometry and edge holding of the Sekiso is great. As Tim said the edge out of the box is very sharpe and it holds it for a while. The fit and finish on the Anryu Hammered is a little better as it should be as it is a more expensive knife. It also has great edge holding. It is an awesome performing and great looking knife! I have two Kurouchi finished knives, a Moritaka and a Murata and the durability of the KU finish varies. It came off very quickly with use on the Moritaka and is more durable on the Murata due to the lacquer finish on the blade. Yes the KU finish does slow down reactivity but the blades tend to be thicker due to the finish.
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