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Re: How to remove a wa handle.

Thu Mar 06, 2014 3:30 pm

phillysco wrote:Well I have never removed a Wa handle. But I have removed the heads off lots of golf clubs which are epoxied in place.
Any handle that is epoxied in place, you might have luck with an electric heat gun, just waving the heat gun on the choil area on both sides.
You should wrap the ferrule with aluminum foil if you plan on trying to save the old handle.
The heat generated by the electric gun is hot enough to break the epoxy bond, but not hot enough to ruin the temper on the steel.
As far as that rubbery sealant TAZ mentions, probably does a great job of preventing moisture from getting inside the handle, but lousy odds of removing the handle.
I have a golf club head remover that works like a charm.
I wonder if I could jury rig it to pull knife handles?
The shaft clamping device can be removed, then I could put tape on the part of the blade inside the clamping mechanism.

Image


Wow this tool might work really well for the job. If it saves a few handles from being destroyed it would pay for itself.

Re: How to remove a wa handle.

Thu Mar 06, 2014 4:31 pm

If the handle has some gaps between the tang and handle, though, I'd fill them with something. Epoxy, bees wax, super glue....something....to keep food, moisture out.

Re: How to remove a wa handle.

Thu Mar 06, 2014 6:09 pm

Taking it off is one thing, can you show putting on a new one?

Re: How to remove a wa handle.

Thu Mar 06, 2014 7:15 pm

A knife like in the video has it's tang heated to red hot and then stuffed into the tang burning it's precise shape.

Re: How to remove a wa handle.

Thu Mar 06, 2014 8:38 pm

Adam Marr wrote:A knife like in the video has it's tang heated to red hot and then stuffed into the tang burning it's precise shape.



Isn't that how most custom Wa handles are done? I feel like you only need wax or epoxy when a handle is made for any knife and not to fit an individual knife.

Re: How to remove a wa handle.

Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:10 pm

I too like the chuckle. Keep these informational vids coming even if this short.

Re: How to remove a wa handle.

Fri Mar 07, 2014 4:48 am

I epoxy all of my handles. One, I don't want to risk overheating the blade and ruining the temper or causing a delamination. Two, I don't want to burn through stabilized wood burls to get to the wooden dowel. With the burning, if something is off a bit (ie the tang isn't ground evenly or slightly bent/twisted from ones I have seen), you can burn it in straight and it will come out crooked due to the tang being off. With forged tanged, I make the slot oversized so I can align it properly with the handle. With conversions or where the tang is narrower, I do a slot with files as close as possible to the tang size and still fill in with epoxy to make sure it's a solid fit and no moisture/food can get in there. With a burned in handle that isn't sealed, the wood can loosen over time and the handle can become loose unless they glue it and seal it. If I had a milling machine where I could mill the slot in the ferrule and then burn into the wooden dowel, I would go that route just to make a cleaner junction, but with the oddly shaped tangs I have encountered, I prefer to file oversized and then install with epoxy.

Re: How to remove a wa handle.

Fri Mar 07, 2014 4:35 pm

Dan_Crubenew wrote:
Adam Marr wrote:A knife like in the video has it's tang heated to red hot and then stuffed into the tang burning it's precise shape.



Isn't that how most custom Wa handles are done? I feel like you only need wax or epoxy when a handle is made for any knife and not to fit an individual knife.


I don't think so, especially with custom wa's on OEM knives. I know mine are not.

On some of the knives I make, I use a pre-shaped fake tang that is the same size as the real tang and burn the tang into the ferrule for a very precise fit. It's easier than filing the hole to fit but only so if I have several same size tang handles to make.....for instance, all of my 240mm wa gyuto's have the same size tang, so I have a fake tang for that design because I make them regularly. I drill a hole from the back of the ferrule most of the way through the ferrule leaving about 1/8" of the face in place and then burn the rest of the way through. Buy using that fake tang, I don't have to worry about ruining the temper of the actual knife and can get it red hot.

Re: How to remove a wa handle.

Fri Mar 07, 2014 4:46 pm

taz575 wrote:I epoxy all of my handles. One, I don't want to risk overheating the blade and ruining the temper or causing a delamination. Two, I don't want to burn through stabilized wood burls to get to the wooden dowel. With the burning, if something is off a bit (ie the tang isn't ground evenly or slightly bent/twisted from ones I have seen), you can burn it in straight and it will come out crooked due to the tang being off. With forged tanged, I make the slot oversized so I can align it properly with the handle. With conversions or where the tang is narrower, I do a slot with files as close as possible to the tang size and still fill in with epoxy to make sure it's a solid fit and no moisture/food can get in there. With a burned in handle that isn't sealed, the wood can loosen over time and the handle can become loose unless they glue it and seal it. If I had a milling machine where I could mill the slot in the ferrule and then burn into the wooden dowel, I would go that route just to make a cleaner junction, but with the oddly shaped tangs I have encountered, I prefer to file oversized and then install with epoxy.



This is the exact process I followed for my rehandle. The joint feels strong and secure, I also had time to properly line up the handle and tang so the whole thing came out straight and true.

Re: How to remove a wa handle.

Sat Mar 08, 2014 4:24 am

Adam Marr wrote:
Dan_Crubenew wrote:
Adam Marr wrote:A knife like in the video has it's tang heated to red hot and then stuffed into the tang burning it's precise shape.



Isn't that how most custom Wa handles are done? I feel like you only need wax or epoxy when a handle is made for any knife and not to fit an individual knife.


I don't think so, especially with custom wa's on OEM knives. I know mine are not.

On some of the knives I make, I use a pre-shaped fake tang that is the same size as the real tang and burn the tang into the ferrule for a very precise fit. It's easier than filing the hole to fit but only so if I have several same size tang handles to make.....for instance, all of my 240mm wa gyuto's have the same size tang, so I have a fake tang for that design because I make them regularly. I drill a hole from the back of the ferrule most of the way through the ferrule leaving about 1/8" of the face in place and then burn the rest of the way through. Buy using that fake tang, I don't have to worry about ruining the temper of the actual knife and can get it red hot.


Thank you the education.
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