We have a massive amount of Edge Pro products so we figured it would be good to have a whole section on how to use the machine and what to use on it.
Sun Aug 04, 2013 1:39 pm
Ok just wondering about how many strokes you normally do per progression? I'm new to the edge pro have only done about ten knives so far. Have been nothing but impressed by the results. After starting with the stock stones 120, 220, 400, 600 and 1k I decided to buy the chosera stones 3k, 5k, and 10k. Wow! This website has changed my whole idea of sharp. The burr is pretty easy to tell with the coarser stones I'm more interested in how many strokes with the finer ones. Thanks
Sun Aug 04, 2013 1:46 pm
The wise ass answer is as many as it takes.
The polite answer is you want to make sure you start with you lowest grit stone and you want to get the edge ground with that first stone. You do as many strokes as it takes to generate a burr.
Once this is complete and you know you have two nicely ground angles that meet at a point you can work up through your progression more quickly. If you want to leave some toothiness you don't want to do too many strokes. If you want to make a polished razor type edge you need to use a tight progression and make sure you are removing the scratches from the last stone. The best way to figure this out is by magnification.
If you want a wild guess do 10 strokes per section of the blade before moving over. Different steels will grind at different rates so this is a general, wing it type estimate.
Sun Aug 04, 2013 2:19 pm
Thanks Mark, I appreciate that. It seemed to me that 10 to 20 strokes in the finer grits produced good results. I just wasn't sure if more was better. After buying my cook a new Tojiro senkou gyuto, and some waterstones 400/1k, and 2k/5k I discovered the edge pro system. Which I then ordered. After receiving it I sharpened every old knife on the boat. Like I said I've been nothing but impressed. After I got the choseras I tried it on 3 brand new Shun's. A 10th anniversary classic chefs, a Fuji honoseki, and a classic pairing knife. I'm amazed how much sharper they became from the stock edges. Unfortunately I purchased these before finding your website. The good news is they will work great with the new edges, the better news is I couldn't help but pull the trigger on two new konosuke fujiyama's. Thanks again Captain Dave
Sun Aug 04, 2013 2:22 pm
The answer is the same as "How many licks does it take to get to the tootsie roll center of a tootsie pop?"
Sorry Mark, my wife has always said I am a wise ass. I guess she's right.
Tue Aug 06, 2013 2:25 pm
In addition to generating a burr - or even more elegantly just getting the two sides to meet before generating burr, there is the issue of completely removing the scratch pattern of the previous stone. Here it is best to use magnification to see the scratches generated by each stone. If you wish you can 'stroke' the knife in alternating directions with each stone in your sequence so you can tell the origin of the scratches sepaprate from each other by the direction of the strokes. This will give you a more definitive answer.
I prefer to remove the previous stone's scratch pattern, however some like to leave the previous scratch pattern partially remaining, giving a 'toothy' edge. Your sharpening abilities will greatly improve when you can SEE what you are doing with some magnification. Mark has some very inexpensive loupes on the CKTG site which I highly recommend adding to your next order.
Tue Aug 06, 2013 5:19 pm
I already ordered a loupe and a USB microscope before even posting the question. It will be interesting to see the differences between stones. Lots of great advise here. Can be a bit confusing at times. Lots of different opinions. It seems like one of those the more you learn, the less you know kind of things.
Thanks, Captain Dave
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