Thu Jan 16, 2014 4:39 pm
I can't get the wires to go away...Do I have to raise my angles a bit to get rid of it? Or do I just keep sharpening at a flatter angle to hit the entire wire? This is very irritating. I see a nice polish with the 5k nubatama, but I also see a straight line going down on my knives.
Thu Jan 16, 2014 4:57 pm
UMBERTO <> Are you finishing your sharpening sequence with an edge-trailing only sequence?
Thu Jan 16, 2014 5:07 pm
Also remember to use light, light pressure, otherwise you are abrading the edge still and making the burr. The pressure needs to be very light so all you are really grinding down is the burr itself. Raising the angle a little won't hurt, but still very light pressure has to be used or you could end up with a (not so) micro-bevel. lol It might also help if you swap sides with every swipe when removing the burr as it will bend from side to side. That should ensure you are hitting the burr every time.
Thu Jan 16, 2014 5:29 pm
Light pressure and edge trailing strokes will help a lot. Once the burr becomes very small slice some news print then do a few more edge trailing strokes on the stone.
Once you get the "feel" for the stone you should be able to produce burr free edges from the stone without the need for a strop.
Thu Jan 16, 2014 6:43 pm
+4 on trailing strokes. I do this every time I move from one stone to the next as well as on my last stone. I usually do a sequence of 10 light stropping strokes on right side then ten on left. Followed by five on the right five on the left, then 3,3 finish 1,1. There are probably other ways, this is just what I do. Between stones I start on 5. When on last stone I start with 10.
Thu Jan 16, 2014 7:20 pm
I prefer the term burr since it's what the vast majority of knife sharpeners understand.
Using edge trailing stokes is good. You can also drag the edge through something to take off the burr like wood, cork, felt and even rubber like you find on the stone holders we sell will work. I'm always worried that I might miss taking it off completely so I do both. It's silly but since it takes just a couple seconds that's what I do.
Thu Jan 16, 2014 7:26 pm
Could it be that I need to reset my bevel? I do have an somewhat uneven edge. The knife has a somewhat wavy bevel. It got touched up on a very cheap combo coarse fine stone. I think I might need to reset the bevel before getting the edge less wired. If I do a couple of trailing strokes slicing paper is no problem.
But when I look at the knife very close in the light I can clearly see a line. It's annoying the hell out of me. I probably won't be able to reset the bevel on a 1k unless I want to spend hours.
Thu Jan 16, 2014 7:34 pm
Are you seeing a burr or a small shiny flat spot where the bevel does not come together from both sides? Are you looking at it under any magnification?
Thu Jan 16, 2014 7:49 pm
Also remember to use light, light pressure, otherwise you are abrading the edge still and making the burr. The pressure needs to be very light so all you are really grinding down is the burr itself.
I used to have the same problem as you are having.
It took a while to learn how lightly to stroke ,even lifting a bit but now no more burr.
Thu Jan 16, 2014 8:45 pm
The best way to remove a wire or continuous burr is not to create it in the first place. When the two edges JUST meet, this is perfection - or as close as it gets. Going past that point is imperfection. Once you remove the burr or wire edge the two sides are NOT meeting anymore. It is best avoided and the skill developed in doing this is a worthwhile one to acquire.
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