CEDAR <> Looks like Mr.M pulled his last honing vid from early this year, but Michiel put his up in January; just a different style. I will say the advantage to Michiel's style is that hand-stones are less expensive.
Consider a few changes in using your natural stone.
1 Use a tomonagura rather than a diamond plate - the slurry will be far finer. 2. Use much less water. 3. Rather than diluting the slurry, continue refining the same slurry. This too will give a finer edge. The technique of increasingly diluting the slurry is most appropriate for stones like coticules, but not Japanese naturals, where the abrasive breaks down rather than the abrasive particles in a coticule that do not.
The resultant edge you achieved is very good, but these suggestions should make it even better.
Thanks for the tips Ken. yes the edge i got was flawless and very smooth.
Can i ask how using a tomo nagura witch i already have, will make a finer slurry then making a slurry from the stone itself? i have tryd a few tomonaguras and i dont like the result as much as using the slurry from the stone itself.
i will try less water and see what happens.
hmmm so to get most of the Jnat stone i finish just on water/polishing the edge and bevel. what is wrong here?
So on the Ozuku Asagi, you used a small diamond plate in the video. This abrades the stone, carving out chunks of it about the size of the diamond grit. Now these particles need to break down further. When you compare this to a slurry generated either using an identical tomonagura or just from just using the razor on the stone, these will be finer than the diamond generated slurry.
Now if we compare the process of generating the slurry from just abrading the knife against the stone without the tomonagura, you will be riding right on the stone for a longer time vs having that mud layer interface. Thus the INITIAL honing / abrading process will be coarser until the mud develops. On a razor, this mud develops far more slowly - less metal and less pressure than a knife. So the initial abrasion is against the coarser stone until mud develops.
Note that I'm referring to tomonaguras - ideally an Ozuku Asagi tomo - as opposed to the more classical naguras which are coarser.
So on a Jnat, the stone itself - especially the harder ones used for straights like the Ozuku Asagi are comparatively scratchy. Now if you start off with some mud, preferably concentrated, the particulates break down to a finer and finer sized particle - hence a successively finer edge. This initial coarser interface is avoided if you start with a slurry. Denser slurries cause more rapid particle size reduction and greater abrasive density - faster and finer. Diluting this finer mud down to zero brings you to working right on the coarser stone compared to the slurry at the end of your session - what you don't want.
The idea is to take maximum advantage of the JNat's ability to refine it's slurry.
The slurry on a coticule doesn't work the same way and here your dilution technique is appropriate.
Ken, what do you think about raising an initial slurry with a fine diamond plate (1200 grit) and then using a tomonagura to refine the mud raised by the diamonds, just for the sake of raising mud quicker? I find with a tomonagura alone the mud takes a long time to raise.