Tue Oct 01, 2013 12:32 am
I was going to start a new topic but because this one is so similar I thought I would crash this instead, hope you don't mind dhmcardoso.
I have a edge pro with a shapton glass stone set 320, 500, 1k, 2k, 4k, 8k, 16k and a atoma 140. My knives are different but I don't think that matters. Like you, I think I would enjoy stepping up to freehand sharpening.
Ok I was thinking of getting the shapton glass stone set 500, 1k, 4k and 8k, since they work so well on the edge pro I thought they would be the best bet, but after reading through these comments, I may have to rethink about my order.
Are these stones people have listed better then the shapton glass stones and why?
The shapton GS are the only ones I've used so I have nothing to compare to, but I do know that these stone get my knives scary sharp
Tue Oct 01, 2013 1:46 am
Once you get past things like can a particular stone abrade the metal in question, and all the stones mentioned can, the main difference is whether the stone is a soaker or splash and go and the feel of the stone while sharpening.
Some stones are softer, some harder, some have a lot of feedback, some less, and there really is no right and wrong, its all personal preference.
The Shapton GS stones represent the hard end of the spectrum. Some people like em, and some people hate em.
Personally I think if you are just getting into freehand sharpening, you would be well served to start with stones that are a sort of middle ground feel wise, that way if they aren't quite right, you only have half the spectrum to examine to find your ideal as opposed to the whole spectrum.
Tue Oct 01, 2013 5:22 am
Consider some Jnats for the higher grit stones. I just started with wet stones - Latte 400 and Ume 1000 synthetics for the coarser and medium end, with a Binsui and Shobu on the high medium and higher end. Even my first effort has been outstanding - but I've been free-handing with Norton diamond hones for many moons. There is an indescribable difference between both the feel of sharpening with even such humble Jnats as I have than the synthetics, and even the cutting performance. It's like a weird combination of toothiness and smoothness - popping hairs, cutting really thin paper both slicing and push cutting, not to mention veggies and proteins. It is positively addicting. It actually makes me consider the stones my wife would use to bludgeon me to death...
Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:20 am
The differences between the Ume and Bamboo series are somewhat vague, with the Bamboo series often the higher priced stone - with exceptions. You can freely mix and match between the two series. I can go into more detail but it is unnecessary for this thread.
The 1k gold is a bargain in terms of price performance, fairly close in hardness to the Shaptons, but yielding more mud for a somewhat finer finish if one takes advantage of the mud. The 1k white (platinum) bamboo is an exceptional stone, but probably not a difference that noticeable for most applications. The 1k speckled Ume medium hard stone is by far the most popular and most universal 1k stone in the series. The medium grit is slightly softer than the 1k gold, but not as hard as the 1k speckled hard or extra hard stones (not available on the CKTG site).
The Meara produces a most interesting edge - on a very wide variety of steels. It is a very different quality and style of edge compared to the 5 or 10k stone edges. I use it quite often as a final edge on a variety of kitchen knives. While you can use it to span a range past 1k, I find adding another natural inbetween (nakado or mid grit stone like the Tajima) gives yet a better result from the Meara.
Regarding the set you selected, my bias runs towards the equivalent Nubatama stones in all grits - 400 and 10k included, but I do have my biases. YMMV
Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:24 am
Is there a chart for these nubatama stones that show the micron size?
Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:36 am
You can convert from microns to grit using the standard grit ratings used for other Japanese stones - eg Shaptons and Choceras. So as a general rule use the following:
1 micron is 16k grit. By doubling and halving one can derive other grit conversions: 2 microns = 8k, 4 microns= 4k and so forth - 8/2k, 16/1k, etc. You can interpolate between values in a linear manner to get sizes not a simple double or halving, which I will leave as an exercise
Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:44 am
I was thinking something a little more accurate like this chart the-grand-unified-grit-chart-t592.html
but with nubatama stones added, unless it is already on here and I'm just not seeing it
Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:05 pm
With help using Ken's chart, how would this set work with each other, feel free to switch the numbatam stones with the different ones in the series.
400 - 40μm
1k - 16μm
2k - 8μm
4k - 4μm
8k - 2μm
Latte 400 Grit Stone http://www.chefknivestogo.com/la400grst.html
Nubatama Ume 1K Medium http://www.chefknivestogo.com/nubatamaume1k1.html
Shapton Pro 2000x http://www.chefknivestogo.com/shpro20.html
Nubatama Ume 4Khttp://www.chefknivestogo.com/nubatamaume4k.html
Nubatama Bamboo 8000 http://www.chefknivestogo.com/nuba80.html
Wed Oct 02, 2013 12:28 am
Thanks Ken. I am strongly considering going all Nubatama. However, do you think the progression is ok?
I will wait to get some more experience before going to naturals. I dont think i would notice the difference or the the most out of a natural stone, so far.
Slice, 1k, 2k and 4k is is a small progression for 3 stones, I think.
Wed Oct 02, 2013 2:23 am
What I have read from this forum is your progression would be fine, just spend a little extra time on each stone.
I could probably drop the 2k, what stones are you looking as a all numbatam progression? I'm finding it hard to choose between the bamboo and ume series in each size?
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