We have a massive amount of Edge Pro products so we figured it would be good to have a whole section on how to use the machine and what to use on it.
Tue Oct 22, 2013 5:22 am
Got my chosera set edge pro 3 weeks ago.
I have some questions though :
How long do I stay on each stone? I haven't seen any burr forming yet. My knives are getting sharp but...
...They do not stay sharp that much. They edge will feel sharp when I touch it, but it will not be as sharp as I want it to be when I am cutting chillies or spring onions at work. If I use my steel the edge will become much worse. Is it because I use a different angle on the steel? I did all my knives at 18 degrees. Maybe I should change my steel angle or stay on the stones more?
I have oversharpened some knives in the past and the edge looks kinda big. Could I have done the same now and set the guide wrong and exposed the edge of the knife a lot, so I am continuing oversharpening it? How can I fix that?
Also, do I use all the stones on every knife or it might be an overkill to go very high on some of them?
Should I be couning strokes on the knives that I do like I was doing in the past with my freehand stones?
My knives are global gs8, global g17, global g10, 3 henckels various sizes, 1 damascus VG10 steel 19cm that somebody got me from japan, 3 tojiro dp, 1 tojiro itk, few fibrox handles victorinox,
Wed Oct 23, 2013 9:07 pm
Well some basic reading around here should answer all your questions , but to get you pointed in the right direction.....
Are you using a sharpie to paint your edge?
Are you raising a burr along the entire length of the edge? (you already said no..)
It is immediately clear that you are not apexing the entire length of the edge , this makes counting strokes kind of a moot point. I just make sure that both sides are even visually ( I do this by looking down the spine and looking where the bevels meet the tip , this area should look even , if one side is smaller than the other grind the small side till they match)
I like to make my knives task specific. You are going to have to experiment and see what works for you.
Fri Oct 25, 2013 1:03 pm
I thought the sharpie is used in order to find the right angle, and there is no burr even if I stay and do the same spot over and over.
Both sides do look the same, if I understand you correctly.
Fri Oct 25, 2013 1:30 pm
If this is your first time sharpening these knives then it will take awhile to actually apex the edge , even if at a glance it looks like your removing all the sharpie.
How are you checking for a burr.
Fri Oct 25, 2013 2:00 pm
How are you measuring the 18 degrees? Using an Angle Cube or with the rougher (but adequate) marks on the EP?
If you're using the marks on the EP, and depending upon how thick your knives are, you may be sharpening them at a more slightly acute angle than you realize, maybe down to less than 16 degrees for a western slicing knife.
You say the edges look good? Got them all nice and polished but still dull?
(I think every EP user starts out doing this.) Look at the edge straight-on. Do you see any glinting on the very edge? For the softer steel knives I would bump down maybe one grit interval, raise the angle, say, 4 degrees, and put on a secondary bevel. Don't go grinding away, because you will develop a burr in no time and can finish that 20 degree secondary bevel in short order. That should take care of the immediate issue.
(Softer steels will take that original 16 degrees, but not for long, so the secondary bevel as described above is your friend.)
For harder Japanese steels you still want to keep working at that 16 degree angle, but if the knives have been repeatedly sharpened without having been thinned you aren't just sharpening you are now also thinning. Get comfortable because this could take awhile. The results should be very satisfying once you are done.
Sun Oct 27, 2013 7:42 pm
What stone are you starting with?
If you figure your getting close but having trouble getting a burr, just raise the stone 1 or 2 degrees. It will be putting a very small micro-bevel on. Reason I say this is you have to practice reading the light reflection on your blade. Once you can see the difference in light reflection you will know when you have sharpened enough on one side and reached one side of the apex. Nothing wrong with using a Sharpie either..
Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:14 am
The edges are shiny and very sharp. But after 1-2 days of use they will not be that sharp.
I measure the 18 degrees with the markings on the edge pro. I have some angle measurement apps on my phone, but they seem to be all over the place. I am going to get an angle cube soon though.
The stones that I am using are the chosera ones. I use the original 220 edge pro stone only when I first do a knife on the edge pro.
Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:53 am
What steel are you using at work?
I believe you are sharpening at too acute an angle for the knife to support in a commercial environment and the edge is rolling. The correct steel could stretch you out for a few more days. (Or strop, but I'm no expert there.). But the surefire answer is to apply a secondary bevel at 3-5 degrees more obtuse for a stronger edge.
Noneck keeps talking microbevel
Tue Oct 29, 2013 6:55 am
...but I'm not quite certain of where a microbevel ends and a secondary bevel begins. I'm talking more than just raising the angle for the last few strokes.
Tue Oct 29, 2013 12:06 pm
Again , are you actually raising a burr?
What knives are you sharpening?
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