We have a massive amount of Edge Pro products so we figured it would be good to have a whole section on how to use the machine and what to use on it.
Tue Oct 29, 2013 9:08 pm
You should barely or not even see a micro-bevel.. it is just that. Making the cutting edge slightly more of an angle than you primary or secondary depending on the grind. But you have to be very close to raising the burr to do this correctly. Ultimately sharpening is what works for you and your cutting tasks . A sharp knife should need nothing more than a steeling and quick strop..not sharpening after use for appropriate cutting tasks. I cut meat and hit bone with my Victorinox knives and very seldom sit down and give them a sharpening. What knives and what are you cutting on..
Fri Nov 08, 2013 2:51 am
My knives are global gs8, global g17, global g10, 3 henckels various sizes, 1 damascus VG10 steel 19cm that somebody got me from japan, 3 tojiro dp, 1 tojiro itk, few fibrox handles victorinox
The chopping boards are the typical plastic food coloured boards.
Fri Nov 08, 2013 2:57 pm
Work on getting the angles on both sides to meet at the Apex. You can form a larger burr to start off sharpening. If your not sharpening each side of the bevel far enough, your not getting a sharp knife. After you know what to look for as far as burr formation and light reflection your burrs will shrink. You may want to try and use a Loupe for this. Play with angles after you can sharpen a knife consistently. Just use the factory angle using a sharpie to start with. Time with stones depends grit, type of steel and how much metal you have to remove. Just steel your knives as your using them maybe a strop and steel when your done. Once you can get to the apex you can use a bastard file and screwdriver to make anything shaving sharp..lol In general plastics are harder on edges than wood. So don't try and cut through the plastic just what you need to cut. Just steel more often..
Fri Nov 08, 2013 9:48 pm
The problem is that I don't have the factory edges anymore as I have used stones in the past and probably did a bad job with them
Sat Nov 09, 2013 1:10 am
Somewhere between 15-20 degrees or go 10 degrees or less and put a micro-bevel on of 15-20 degrees. If the edge holds up go with a more acute angle till it fails. Long and short of sharpening that sums it up. It all depends how much time you want to spend.
Sun Nov 10, 2013 5:34 pm
Globals use softer steel and they convex the edges for strength. Once you put a V edge on the knife it won't hold as an acute angle so what noneck recommends is a good way to sharpen them. Go steep at under 10 degrees and then put a 20 degree micro bevel on it. Then tweak the angles until you get the best edge the steel will hold without rolling or chipping. This will depend on your use habits too.
Tue Nov 12, 2013 4:53 am
You can convex with the E.P if change the angle slightly as your sharpening about .5 a degree or less at a time. Then strop the blade to even it all out. Not something to try when just learning though. I don't even bother doing it anymore. Almost all of knives you have use "soft steel", so just steeling occasionally should do the trick. Watch a Youtube video of a good butcher and see how often he steels.
Wed Nov 13, 2013 11:59 pm
What really helped me after I got my EP Pro 20 months ago was learning patience.
Light , slower strokes will get you where you want to go. Let the stone do the work.
If you bear down you might be slightly bending the steel and wearing out the stone.
Also of interest, do you flatten your stones?
When the stones get dished your blade will never get really sharp. DAMHIK but think of a wasted month.
The Choseras are fairly soft themselves and if you aren't stroking lightly it can happen sooner than you think.
I think that Ben Dale might have it on his video but to check for a level stone just hold another stone on its' edge on top
of the stone you want to check - 90°. Any daylight and it's dished.
CKTG carries ATOMA diamond lapping plates in 140, 400, 600 & 1200 grits. I have them all but wind up using the 1200 the most but sometimes the 600. IMO I'd suggest getting the 1200.They're not cheap but the work well. Without them I wouldn't be able to get an edge that I'm looking for.
Once you start keeping your stones flat and use a lighter, consistent pressure , I think you'll be amazed at of easily and well the EP work.
Disclaimer: No connection to Ben Dale or CKTG ( though I should just do a direct deposit to them ) Just am impressed with both.
Thu Nov 14, 2013 12:04 am
The ATOMA plates I'm referring to are the full size ones 210mm X 75 - about 8¼" X 3"
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