Wed Mar 05, 2014 5:29 am
Actually the burring is cos I was using putting more pressure on the edge trailing stroke. Was reading in the sharpening side that someone said that the japs do that. I didn't say the 19c27 was chippy, my tojiro dp was more chippy comparatively and the goko was like silk, really smooth edge. think I may have put too steep an angle on the blade so if I have poor edge holding I'll probably back off on the angles a bit. My only concern is that the heat treatment may not be good resulting in mushy steel that wires and can't hold an edge, this is only a possible suspicion so don't read anything into it, have to try it out to be sure, I don't think this is the case. Its more likely my sharpening and angle that's the problem. Anyway I seem to have an edge that seems to be wire free at the moment but perhaps a little too angled. Will know when I use it next time.
The reason I said 90/10 or 80/20 ootb was cos I could see a bevel on the right side and almost no bevel on the left, the right being the index finger side in a pinch grip. So during sharpening I was taking more metal out on the left side to try to even up the bevels a bit. Its still more right heavy which is why I said Its probably a 70/30 or 60/40 now but ootb it was probably 90/10 or 80/20.
My tojiro has a 1.9 mm blade measured at the spine near the handle. The hammered goko is thicker than the tojiro which led me to conclude it was 2 or more mm. I measured it with a ruler and it looks like it was about 2mm. I don't not like it, its a very nice knife and I'm overall quite happy with it.
Wed Mar 05, 2014 5:34 am
I said scorching. It was litterally light brown around the tip. That came off with metal polish. Autosol metal polish is very fine grit stuff. It can actually be used as a stropping compound. It took the scorch marks right off. Right now the blade looks perfectly normal aside from the scratches which are not a problem.
On the sharpening side I've a ways to go to get there. Don't have any stones yet, have the dmt duosharp with base. Looking to get a 4K stone or a combo 1/4k.
Wed Mar 05, 2014 5:48 am
Ok, surprised that there was scorching, which can mean that the metal was overheated and softened. Mine didn't have any discoloring at all on it.
Yeah, you will need some finer stones to really get the potential out of that steel. A 1200 DMT will leave a pretty large burr and will be hard to deburr fully. The 240mm Damascus Hammered were seconds, and mine was somewhat sharp, but no where near what the 210mm Damascus non hammered was like OOTB. I took them both up to a Rika 5K and stropped on bare leather, very nice edge on both now.
Wed Mar 05, 2014 5:57 am
Yeah I agree on the stones part. Just a question on that though. I can get 5 micron, 3, 1.5, 1, and 0.5 micron pastes. And with the finer stones you're basically doing edge trailing strokes anyway. Could I instead of using finer stones use a progression of stropes from 5 micron down to 0.5 micron and then bare leather to get similar results?
Wed Mar 05, 2014 7:34 am
Stones can be used edge leading or trailing strokes, both work well for me. The pastes are OK, but what are you using them on as a substrate?? Leather is soft and may lead to a more rounded edge/duller, same with felt. Balsa is harder, but again, may lead to more rounding of the bevel. Stones will work quicker (abrasive breaks down, exposing fresh abrasive) and better and are more versatile than just using a bunch of pastes. If you want to strop and use a paste, go for a 1 micron paste and be done with it. No need to play with 5 different pastes/strops, especially from a 1200 grit diamond edge, which is going to be a bit scratchy and need a LOT of stropping to clean up. IMHO, there is no need to go past 1 micron pastes on a kitchen knife unless you are shaving with it. I usually go up to my Rika 5K (some say gives more of a 3K edge/polish) and then strop on bare leather to fully remove the burr, or I go to a Japanese Natural stone for more refinement with some tooth left, usually end up in a 8-10K area or so.
I have not yet figured out why people like to stop at like a 1K stone and then strop from there using 5 or more pastes? Most people strop on a something that is softer than a stone, which can lead to edge rounding and dulling the edge and takes a LOT longer than a stone does to polish. Rika 5K cost ~$50, about the same as you would pay for one of the pastes and will last a very long time! Ultra refined edges don't really perform much differently in the kitchen; many have found a toothier edge (3-6K) lasts longer than a highly polished edge in the kitchen.
Wed Mar 05, 2014 7:59 am
Thanks Taz, That explains it very well. I have access to reasonable priced strop pastes so could do the multi step thing. Was going to use balsa. But thinking of getting the green brick considering it seems to have a grit range depending on how long its been soaked sounds quite interesting.
Wed Mar 05, 2014 8:54 am
Stones may seem more expensive in the long run but stropping knives on pastes goes through the pastes rather quickly and noticing a difference between 1.5 1 and .5 on a knife is hard to do unless all you do is finesse work that not many people notice these days.
Wed Mar 05, 2014 9:01 am
Even when the pastes are reasonably priced, I don't feel you would get the precision of the stones. The Rika 5K plays better with a variety of steels (VG-10, AEB-L, M390, R2, Blue, White, Aogami Super, 52100, etc) and leaves a nicer edge than the Green Brick does.
Wed Mar 05, 2014 10:40 am
OK roger that. Looks like I'll be shopping around for a new pet rock.
Wed Mar 05, 2014 11:50 am
Another thanks Taz
I never have understood the advantages and disadvantages of stones versus strops, especially in the range where they overlap. Well explained.
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