We have a massive amount of Edge Pro products so we figured it would be good to have a whole section on how to use the machine and what to use on it.
Tue Jun 03, 2014 6:34 pm
Since this is my 100th post I thought a good title might be warranted. The girl friend in this case is my EP Apex 4.
I knew when we first met she was a bit flat chested but have figured what the creator made well perhaps this man can improve on.
My question is if I want a long table to perform work while the sliding cross bar(Stone holder) is on the sides of the back stop (As discussed in another post the stone hits the back stop at lower angles and or less tall sections of blades) is there any reason I cannot make a fairly simple side table extender? I was actually thinking of taking a Stainless or Plastic L bracket and depending on the thickness of the cross section I would machine a relief in the bracket for the table so the height of the angle, when setting atop the plastic table, would be correct. I might also have to provide some relief for the back stop to slide into it. I would still have enough rigidity on the sides of the plastic table top to have longer sweeps or less knife relocation's. It would also be rather simple for me to insert some magnets in the edges of the bolt-on to help hold the knife in place on either side of the table. I would still add blue painter's tape to the surfaces prior to each usage to prevent scratching. As a note, I have the ability to also polish this attachment for ease of relocation or to prevent scratching. I can also Passivate and electro-polish the surface to free it from contaminants.
Once I have the material and sets ups in place I can easily make several of these for various widths/heights and thicknesses of my knives if I do not feel one size fits all.
I am thinking of adding several inches per side using the above concept. My question is this silly or is it functional and reasonable since I can do this at no cost to myself??...... Hmmm after reading this perhaps I should have asked if if giving my EP some Viagra would help in this regard... Naw, this gentleman prefers bolt ons and blondes. Thank you for your help.
Tue Jun 03, 2014 6:54 pm
You're a dirty dirty boy!
Seriously, I can't understand where your problem lies. I can sharpen any knife down to 10deg with ease as long as I remove that white plastic bumper. Do you use an angle cube? Without one you may be going way below 10deg.
Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:22 pm
You are 100% correct as this was more about widening the working area of the table. And yes, I did remove the plastic backstop guard per your suggestion and that does take care of the hitting problems. I will have to make sure the bare back stop will properly hit my knives with more rounded spines and thin cross sections. This is now about having better stability, control and the ability to work longer areas of the blade on the table with side extensions. Thank you
Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:40 pm
Jamie, one issue I can visualize with a wider work platform is when sharpening shorter knives like paring/pettys you might not be able to hang the tip area off the platform to correctly hit it with the rod/stone holder. If your tip area is over the platform, you'll need to move the tip area away from the blade stop to get it off the work area so you can sharpen it. This will necessitate canting the knife at an angle to the platform. I prefer to keep the knife spine parallel to the blade stop where possible and hang the tip area off the platform just enough to clear the plastic platform w/the stone. Personally, I also like the idea of keeping the stone more towards the middle of the platform rather than doing super wide sweeps. Just my preference.
Thu Jun 05, 2014 2:53 pm
Thank you Steve,
I am playing around with the direction of the grind to see if the resulting tooth of the blade is different when it is roughly 90 degrees to the edge, more of an angle to the edge and which direction the angle of the tooth is in relation to cutting product. By giving my self a different and steeper angle to the edge by operating off the side of the bed while the blade stays parallel to the edge of the bed I can get a fair amount of angle to the sweep or can also curve my sweep rather than just back and forth in straight line regardless where on the bed I am attacking the edge. The honorable ripe tomato seems to be my perfect test subject. No doubt I am getting a bit too anal about this but I am having fun with it and maybe learning a few things about how the resulting tooth or an over or under polished edge, along with the angles of the grind, affects the cuts on different product. If I get this right I can show my dentist how to work on my teeth. The heck with the dentist I can do it myself on the Edgepro... LOL
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