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Fri Aug 02, 2013 11:46 pm
I have a Konosuke HD2 gyuto and i have been trying to do a forced patina. I know that the knife is made from a stainless "blend." But the knife does take a natural sort of patina on its own (or maybe its just staining). I have put a thin layer of mustard on the knife and allowed it to sit for as long as 45 minutes. Am I missing something or does this metal not accept a forced patina?
Sat Aug 03, 2013 12:59 am
Well, it's semi-stainless, which translates to - we don't know what the hell it is, it's a secret.
But in all practicality, why would you want to force a patina on an HD2 konosuke, that doesn't want a patina?
But would rather be cleaned! Get a carbon, then you'll have no problems.
Sat Aug 03, 2013 2:14 am
yeah i like the way it looks all stained. Gives it character lol. Was just hoping i could help it along in the process with the mustard. Which are the metals that translate into carbon steels that are reactive? is that the white 1 & 2?
Sat Aug 03, 2013 3:31 am
Here's a basic run down.http://zknives.com/knives/kitchen/misc/ ... elp3.shtml
A quick google search will yield all sorts of results...
Sat Aug 03, 2013 4:27 am
Chefdan6 wrote:yeah i like the way it looks all stained. Gives it character lol. Was just hoping i could help it along in the process with the mustard. Which are the metals that translate into carbon steels that are reactive? is that the white 1 & 2?
I had no problem forcing a mustard patina on my HD2. Like you, i was getting these uneven stains even though I wiped the knife down. 30 minutes of mustard and I was good to go.
Sat Aug 03, 2013 6:49 am
DAN <> The HD steel will accept a forced patina; that you want one is your business.
Try thickening dijon with mustard powder and coating the knife with it. If 30 minutes did nothing last time, do 150 this time; it won't rust or pit at that mark, but it should be dark as shiite. You will smell the chemical reactivity. Thoroughly rinse the crust off with water, then coat the blade w/baking soda & scrub it in w/ a daikon or potato nub (potato is a new suggestion I just heard due to present oxacylic acid).
I'd also suggest no longer wiping your knife totally dry during use. I mean wipe it clean, but if you want it to oxidize, give it every opportunity to do so with reactive foods & the water you rinse w/. Acidic foods are now your friend - as strange as that sounds.
Yes, Hitachi white, blue, & yellow steels are commonly used carbons in kitchen cutlery & are all reactive. There are many more carbons though such as 5160, W1, W2, 52100, 1084, 1095, 15n20, 01, 04, etc., etc., etc...
Sat Aug 03, 2013 1:28 pm
"The HD steel will accept a forced patina; that you want one is your business."
Absoluteness! I was approaching Dan's question, from a "purely" objective standpoint.
I'm not very good at subjective reasoning anymore.
Hence: Stainless doesn't want to be stained. That's why it's called....stainless.
BUT, I've never owned one...so I wouldn't know! But I would think it's fair to assume that if he's having problems
patina'ing a semi-stainless knife, that's probably why!?
Sat Aug 03, 2013 6:02 pm
I'm at work today. I've been trying all day to do this. Thickened mustard, thinned out mustard. I'm just totally baffled. every time I spray the knife off there is no patina. I guess it's time to give up lol
Sat Aug 03, 2013 9:58 pm
There is about 7% chromium in the steel so you will only get a little darkening if you're lucky. Get a full carbon steel knife that is reactive if you want to get a good patina on it. Otherwise it's an uphill battle.
Sat Aug 03, 2013 11:38 pm
Thats some helpful information. So is it the amount of chromium in the steel that makes it more reactive or is it the amount of carbon, or a combination of both?
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