Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:05 pm
I have a Maple burl and buffalo horn ferrule wa handle on my knife. The buffalo ferrule is cracking along the side. Can anyone tell me how I can stop the ferrule from cracking (like glue it with super glue) and then fill in the indentation of the crack to make the surface smooth..
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Sun Sep 16, 2012 9:58 pm
Yep, fill it with a good quality cyanoacrylate--I like the stuff from Bob Smith Industries. Let it set, and then sand it down to flush with ~200 grit sandpaper and burnish it with a brown paper bag. The advantage to the paper bag is that you get a nice shiny finish and you can't over-do it, you can buff it all day without causing much removal, but it follows up a 220 grit sandpaper very nicely.
Mon Sep 17, 2012 12:26 am
Dear Eamon Burke,
Thanks for your help. I found 2 dealers that carry Bob Smith products. I've narrowed it down to 2 of his products. The MAXI-CURE or the INSTA-CURE+.
I'll use the brown paper bag first, but I've also got a Dremel tool with a buffer that I can use with Jeweler's Rouge to polish the surface.
Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:36 am
Be careful with any high speed tooling. If buffalo horn gets to hot, it will turn yellow/white.
Mon Sep 17, 2012 3:05 am
Yeah, the horn will turn some funky colors if it gets too hot and can start to move a bit as well. I usually superglue the cracks with the thinnest superglue I can find so it will work its way into the crack, so a few coats and sand it even. Most of the buff horn I have seen lately has a lot of cracks in it, regardless of the supplier. Many are at the white wisps in the horn as well, so with some of the more figured stuff, there are more cracks to fill.
Mon Sep 17, 2012 6:41 pm
Plus the rouge can get into the surface and leave it looking stained. If you use your dremel, don't put any compound on it, just buff it with clean felt and touch it every couple seconds to see how hot it is.
But you really won't need to. You can hand sand it just fine, it's not like you are taking out 80 grit scratches or anything.
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