We have a massive amount of Edge Pro products so we figured it would be good to have a whole section on how to use the machine and what to use on it.
Mon Dec 09, 2013 10:34 pm
I just purchased the edge pro kit one from you on black Friday. Shipping was fast thank you very much. I also added a few extra stones the 120 and the 1k chosera stone? The kit seems to work fine just not sure I have fine enough stone to get a shaving edge so far I have got a decent edge but I am still learning. I have used my sharpmaker to finish off a few of the knives and that has worked fine. I guess I am wondering what would be the next stone I need . I was thinking the ep 1k or the shapton 4k or the chosera 3k. Also i assume the jump from the 400 ep to 1k chosera is
Mon Dec 09, 2013 10:43 pm
There are a couple tips that I usually give to new users of the machine.
Tip #1. Make sure you have completed your work on the low grit stone before you move up. It's a common and understandable mistake to rush through the progression when you first start.
The way to know you are done is you have a nice burr along the entire edge before flipping the knife over to do the other side. Then you want to repeat the process on the flip side before advancing to the next stone.
Tip #2. Make sure your using the drill stop collar to adjust for differences in stone thicknesses. This will affect your results if you're stones are different thicknesses and since the rough stones wear more quickly than the fine grit stones this will happen quickly.
Tip #3. Use light pressure especially as you progress to finer grit stones. It's ok to use a little more pressure when you are grinding on the low grit stones but you want to lighten your hand on the arm as you start polishing out the edge.
Those should help you get better results with the stuff you have. Wait a bit before buying more items and work on your technique.
Tue Dec 10, 2013 4:32 am
I've had an EP for almost 4 years. As with almost any tool you will get MUCH better results with it as time passes. No, it won't take 4 years.
I believe the key to learning fast is to go slow. Go slow on individual strokes and the results will improve very quickly. If you try to go fast on each stroke like the people on youtube BEFORE your accuracy is better your great results sill come very slowly. Don't hurry. The great results will begin very quickly and you'll speed up automatically. Put some extra attention to slowing down when the stone gets close to the tip of the blade. It's easy to round off a very nice pointy tip with one slip where the stone "DROPS" off the end of the tip. I'd almost bet you have already had this happen.
I'd like to comment on the issue of making sure to create a burr. While this is absolutely one good way to be sure your stones have reached the edge apex I prefer to flip the blade every stroke. I'm calling one stroke the stroking from edge heel to tip, even though that may require several "strokes" from one end of the stone to the other since the EP stones are only 6" long. This is especially true with blades longer than 3 or 4". Anyway I do one "pass" from heel to tip then flip the blade and do the same thing on the other side. I keep doing this until both bevels meet in the middle. By doing it this way I don't create any more than little burrs and the edge stays in the center (assuming it was in the middle of the blade to begin with). By looking at the edge as you work you can tell when the bevels are getting close to meeting. Using a loupe helps. Instead of checking for a burr to know when one bevel meets the other I keep trying to slice paper. When the bevels meet the knife will cut. Then it's a matter of refining the edge to your wants or needs with whichever grit stones you want to use, strops, etc. Anytime I remove a burr I consider that wasted steel. It would take 100% perfection to apex the edge without creating ANY burrs and I'm not close to 100% perfect. I just try to apex the edge with as small a burr as I can.
With practice the EP is capable of putting a hair popping or whittling edge on the knife. These edges will possible be achieved in 20% of the time it might take someone to become extremely skilled at free hand sharpening. One of the most important things in sharpening is the angle control and the EP takes care of this for you. Keep practicing and you will soon not need another tool to improve the edge after the EP. I made myself a sharpening pond out of a 3/4" piece of plywood and a piece of glass so the EP can stay set up all the time. Getting the EP out and putting it away is a huge disadvantage IMO just for a quick touch up.
Hope this helps and I'm sorry for getting so long winded. Also, I haven't the experience a lot of the folks here have and what I think changes as I learn.
Tue Dec 10, 2013 1:18 pm
Well I appreciate all the advice I have a question about my current setup will I be able to get a great edge with the equipment I have. I have 3 ep stones 120 220 400. And I have a 1k chosera
Tue Dec 10, 2013 3:11 pm
danthenewb wrote:Well I appreciate all the advice I have a question about my current setup will I be able to get a great edge with the equipment I have. I have 3 ep stones 120 220 400. And I have a 1k chosera
You can get a great edge with these stones. The edge will be a bit toothy which is fine. By that I mean picture a hacksaw blade with very fine teeth. If the teeth were so small you can't see them with the naked eye that's what a toothy (coarse) edge looks like. These edges cut VERY well. If you want the edge smoother you will need one or two higher grit stones. A 2k and a 4k stone would be nice. Then an 8k or so. Get some advice on stone selection from others with more experience. I have the Shapton glass stones from 500 thru 16k. They work great..
So IMO what you have now is a good selection. Just add a couple of higher grit stones. When the EP stones need to be replaced you might want to check different stones. For the coarser grits I've found moldmaster stones on "congresstools.com" to be very good stones at a very low price (approx. $5 ea.). But they don't come glued to an EP blank. I do that myself with aluminum rods from Lowe's. But, if you would rather get better quality stones there are lot's of choices here. Again, get opinions on stones from others who have tried several different types. I've familiar with EP, moldmaster and Shapton glass and that's about all I've tried. Hope this helps.
Tue Dec 10, 2013 4:54 pm
First off, opinions are like sphincters; everyone has one and they all stink. Here's mine.
The EP stones you have are good enough to sharpen most softer steels. As has been said, getting the burr and developing technique is crucial. But at some point the EP stones will leave you bitter.
The EP 120, although a very low grit, just isn't very aggressive. It's like Tyrannosaurus Rex with those useless arms. The faster CKTG can get the Nubatama Bamboo 150 in stock the better the world will be.
The EP 220 is a decent stone.
The EP 400 is OK I guess, but I found the feedback harsher than the previous 2 stones. I liked the EP 320 much better.
You can go to the Chosera 1K from the EP 400. The difference is minimal.
Keep rocking your EP stones, but devise your exit strategy now. I personally have Atoma 140, Bamboo 150, then Shapton Pros in 1/2/5/8K.
Tue Dec 10, 2013 6:48 pm
I have used the sharpmaker for a few years and have gotten some really good edges a few problems I had with it was sharpening took a very long time. Also the tip if the knife never seemed to get as sharp. I never worked one side of the knife at a time as far as creating a burr on one side then switching to the next I just alternated strokes. I may try that with the edge pro. I have been getting a decent burr hard to notice on the 400 stone or 1k. I need to use the drill stop collar I am sure that is causing some problems with stone thickness. One thing I noticed is EPA creates a nice even bevel from heel to tip. It seems to cut the knife metal fast compared to the sharp maker. I have gotten two knives to a barely shaving sharp edge. A few swipes on a ceramic seems to make it a little better. I have sharpened about six knives 1 knife had a very nice edge it had a very simple shape and it was a carbon steel blade. I guess slowing down and practice will get me a lot further down the road to a super edge.I will definitely need a few more high grit stones I assume I need to get a 2k as my next progression or can I go to a 4k shap or chosera 3k from the 1k chosera. I also plan to get a bamboo 150 once I wear out the ep 120. What stone progression would you put between the 150 and 1k when I replace those stones. Sorry about this random bunch of ramblings and questions. I am just trying to absorb all the knowledge I can about the EPA and try and inmpliment it the next time I use it
Thanks for all the help
Tue Dec 10, 2013 7:03 pm
I think without a doubt the hardest thing about sharpening knives is deciding which stones to get.
There are so many great choices. There are several here that can give great advice because they have used so many different types. Good luck with your research and choices. One thing I believe is no matter which stones you select from advice here you'll have a great setup. Have fun.
Tue Dec 10, 2013 7:18 pm
What is your opinion on reprofiling with a edge pro and then putting a micro bevel on with a sharp maker. Also do you think you can get a better edge just using the edge pro.
Tue Dec 10, 2013 8:11 pm
Edgepro all the way.....no arguments here dude...
Start & stay with the precision...
Powered by phpBB © phpBB Group.
phpBB Mobile / SEO by Artodia.