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Convex gyuto

Wed Oct 17, 2012 8:16 am

Looking for a 240mm gyuto with a convex grind, around $200. Not sure how many more details I need as I"m thinking the stable might be pretty well limited with just convex grind? Any suggestions?

thanks... Jon

Re: Convex gyuto

Wed Oct 17, 2012 1:15 pm

It's calling your name Jon:

http://www.chefknivestogo.com/riulst25gy.html

Re: Convex gyuto

Wed Oct 17, 2012 3:52 pm

Hi Adam,

Yeah, that one has been calling my name, though I'm looking for something like that in a steel that will take a finer edge. Any idea if/when the other steel options will be available in that Ultimatum?

Re: Convex gyuto

Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:07 pm

Yeah, 19C27 is no AEB-L...but it can still take a really nice edge. Have you ever used it before?

Re: Convex gyuto

Thu Oct 18, 2012 6:46 am

No, can't say I have personal experience with 19C27. My Wusthof kitchen knives cut fine and hold an edge and I'm sure 19C27 would take an edge and cut fine, but I guess I'd rather be more selective at this point.

Re: Convex gyuto

Thu Oct 18, 2012 7:14 am

Actually, just looked at the Ultimatum in M390. So two questions, have you had any experience with M390 and what's the difficulty in obtaining/installing a good wa handle? I have done a couple puko knife handles before so I'm not wholly unfamiliar with that type of building.

Re: Convex gyuto

Thu Oct 18, 2012 1:20 pm

Ha....I just sharpened my first M390 gyuto last night....although not the Ultimatum. Not bad...not my favorite all time though. Past that, I know nothing. I didn't even get a chance to use it other than on some paper for edge testing.

I assume you're planning to buy that one without the handle?!?! Putting a wa handle together isn't difficult in it's simplest format. Drill some holes in some wood, glue them together and stick it on the tang.

However, the wa handles I make are done with a hidden mortise and tenon type joint between the ferrule and the body of the handle. It creates a mechanical joint as well as the glue joint to keep everything together.

Then the handles are epoxied on.

Others use a burn in method where the tang is heated and burned into the handle. Makes for a very tight fit.

Re: Convex gyuto

Thu Oct 18, 2012 2:48 pm

So when you say not your all time favorite, since you haven't had the chance to use it, do you mean as far as aesthetics, sharpenability or ...? And what is your favorite(s) AEB-L?

Re: Convex gyuto

Thu Oct 18, 2012 3:05 pm

All time favorite steel is AEB-L.

I just meant not my favorite from a sharpening stand point. Burr removal was a bit more than easy, but not difficult. It is wear resistant and took a little time to grind down to what I wanted....but again nothing horrible. The edge it took was fantastic. I wouldn't turn my nose up to a knife made of it...that's for sure.

Re: Convex gyuto

Thu Oct 18, 2012 3:15 pm

I do a completely different method :) I use aluminum tubing (1/2" OD, 3/8" ID) and drill 1/2" holes into the rear part around 2" and ferrule (around 2/3 the way thru the ferrule) and use the aluminum tubing to secure the two pieces. I don't drill all the way thru the front ferrule (I leave around 1/4"-3/8") and then file/Dremel/Drill the slot for the tang. I grind the tang down to slip tightly into the aluminum tubing. Easier for me than the Mortise/tenon joint that others use. Others drill holes and go thru the ferrule completely and insert a wooden dowel to join the pieces together, and then drill/file out the tang slot.

For me, sharpening M390 takes maybe a little more time (18-20 minutes) than the CPM154 (15-18min), which takes a few minutes more than the AEB-L (10-12min approx). This is going from a rough 80 grit belt sander bevel, to the Bester 500, Bester 1200, Shapton Pro 2K or Blue Synthetic Aoto, Rika 5K, Shobu San J Nat (around 8K), Ozuka Asagi J Nat and a Boron Carbide over Balsa strop.
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