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 Post subject: Clad knife, what happens when carbon edge is gone?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 8:00 pm 

Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2012 8:14 pm
Posts: 134
We all know that that a carbon knife, that is clad in steel, has an exposed edge. Some exposed edges are greater than others depending on the knife. So what happens when there is barely any exposed carbon left? I understand that the core is carbon, so technically there will always be carbon on the very edge, but if your exposed part is now just the cladding, will it effect sharpening, cutting etc?


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 Post subject: Re: Clad knife, what happens when carbon edge is gone?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 8:16 pm 

Joined: Thu Jun 14, 2012 2:05 am
Posts: 84
If you mean the secondary bevel, then it depends on how the knife is. If the cladding goes really far down and the knife is really thin, then no. If you've sharpened it all the way to the cladding and the knife has become thick behind the edge, then yes. You'll need to thin out some of the cladding on both sides to restore some of the knife's function. This is all assuming that the cutting edge is still hagane.

I also forgot to mention that it affects sharpening in that the cladding will abrade at a different rate and have a different feel than the hagane.


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 Post subject: Re: Clad knife, what happens when carbon edge is gone?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 8:50 pm 

Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2012 8:14 pm
Posts: 134
This is a close-up of the edge in question. While it is thin behind the edge, your comment about sharpening is what I was concerned about.
This is a pic of the edge in question.

http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/7019/oty5.jpg


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 Post subject: Re: Clad knife, what happens when carbon edge is gone?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 9:33 pm 

Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2014 4:52 pm
Posts: 182
emoclaus wrote:.
.... have a different feel than the hagane.


Had to google that. Amazing there's a specific word for that in Japanese. Kinda like Eskimo's and snow!


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 Post subject: Re: Clad knife, what happens when carbon edge is gone?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 9:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 26, 2012 5:13 pm
Posts: 2833
Location: CT
You need to thin back the cladding as you sharpen if it's getting into the edge bevel area. Some knives have more core steel exposed (konosuke Fujiyama Blue), others have less, depending on the steepness of the grind and the thickness of the core.


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 Post subject: Re: Clad knife, what happens when carbon edge is gone?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:19 pm 

Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2012 8:14 pm
Posts: 134
taz575 wrote:You need to thin back the cladding as you sharpen if it's getting into the edge bevel area.


I have no experience doing this. Is this something I could do on my own without screwing up the knife?


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 Post subject: Re: Clad knife, what happens when carbon edge is gone?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:00 pm
Posts: 2389
L.A. - what specific knife is this?


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 Post subject: Re: Clad knife, what happens when carbon edge is gone?
PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2014 11:11 pm 

Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2012 8:14 pm
Posts: 134
SteveG wrote:L.A. - what specific knife is this?


Anryu Hammered 210 Gyuto


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 Post subject: Re: Clad knife, what happens when carbon edge is gone?
PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:50 am 

Joined: Wed May 16, 2012 1:49 am
Posts: 312
Location: Amstelveen, The Netherlands
All what Taz said. See it as
sharpening a pencil, you have
to remove some wood to free
the core. You don't want to
incorporate the soft clad steel
into your edge.


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 Post subject: Re: Clad knife, what happens when carbon edge is gone?
PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2014 1:13 am 

Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2012 7:18 pm
Posts: 317
Los Altos wrote:
taz575 wrote:You need to thin back the cladding as you sharpen if it's getting into the edge bevel area.


I have no experience doing this. Is this something I could do on my own without screwing up the knife?


Certainly doable. Since it's the secondary bevel (not the actual cutting edge), it's also more forgiving. Before you sharpen the edge, reduce the angle of the blade on the stone (making it flatter to the stone). The contact should be on the part of the blade behind the edge, not on the actual edge. If you've sharpened a lot, but haven't thinned it for a while, you might have to remove a good bit of metal (which will take off some of the cladding as well as thin behind the edge, which will result in better performance). Once you have done the thinning and restored the knife to its original geometry (or somewhat close to it), you can just do a little thinning each time you sharpen, before you sharpen the primary edge.

Hope that helps.


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