Fri Jul 19, 2013 2:22 am
I am having chipping issues with my knives. I am using aebl. What I need to know is it the steel or am I just sharpening to much. The chipping doesn't effect my performance it just annoys me. Would a different steel help with this or is it a sharpening issue?
Fri Jul 19, 2013 4:07 am
What are you using for a cutting board? What are you cutting? How thin is your edge and what grit? I've used AEB-L a lot and haven't had chipping issues with it. Is it the edge itself or is it a wire edge that is not fully removed?
Fri Jul 19, 2013 4:21 am
how do you use your steel? how often? it might be because if you steel too often and or using too much pressure on the rod.
and it could be the board too.
and if it's a sharpening issue, then you might have a too steep an angle on the knife. maybe a microbevel will help.
either way, pictures will help us address the issue better.
Fri Jul 19, 2013 8:00 am
KIRK <> I reckon the highest probable cause of chipping, and a common denominator from Tim & Franz's points, is your sharpening angle. If you're bringing your edges to super acute angles, you're going to have to implement a microbevel.
Fri Jul 19, 2013 10:03 am
Thanks your post makes sense. Cutting boards are the work poly boards. I use ceramic rod, which I probably should switch to a smooth steel. As far as stone 1000 grit to a 3000 grit and lately I got a variety pack of those finger stones and messed around with 8000 grit and finish with stropping with compounds. As far as angle I know my cleaver was pretty low when I got it and I'm not sure about the laser but it is ground thinner than artfex. I'm not really sure what angle I'm sharpening at I just lift it enough so it is flushed with the stone. If I need to change this to I need to use a coarser stone to basically basically reset it or do I just need to adjust my angle. I guess I can try and take pics, but haven't had much luck posting pics on forums in the past
Fri Jul 19, 2013 10:12 am
Poly can be rough on knife edges. The ceramic rods leave a fairly toothy edge and I have seen Ceramics leave a wire edge, too. I've taken AEB-L artifex to a nearly zero grind edge from the belt sander and then sharpened at around 10-15 degrees estimated on each side, no chipping issues.
Fri Jul 19, 2013 2:20 pm
KIRK <> It sounds like you're sharpening at obscenely acute angles... like 10 degrees total.
Try graduating your angle by making a perpendicular 90 degree to the stone, half that to 45, half that to 22.5, half that to 11, and you will have an edge that is substantially stronger than the 5 degrees its sounds like you're sharpening to. Honestly, in a professional environment, I would mostly find even the 11 degree edge to be too acute. Add a microbevel, and you're really cooking with fire then...
You know - its hard to know what the issue is, but the way you describe your sharpening, "just lift it enough so it is flushed with the stone" - I'm guessing your edge is just way too thin.
Furthermore, you mention you have a means to strop. Forget your steel, any steel, for awhile... true with your strop; even at work they're easy enough to use. Just an idea to knock out another variable.
Sat Jul 20, 2013 4:30 am
I find if you can just barely fit you pinky finger under the spine that's about the optimal angle, its probably about 15-18 per side.
At a measured 12 dps with a AEB-L knife I experienced edge rolling while cutting paper. The edge was also finished to 10k which didn't help. I found a micro bevel around 18dps on the thinned bevel to hold well. Ymmv.
Sat Jul 20, 2013 7:33 pm
To adjust my angle on the edge can I use a 1000 grit stone or should I go lower?
Sat Jul 20, 2013 9:51 pm
KIRK <> It's just more time on a 1000, but it works fine. If you have lower, go lower.
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