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 Post subject: Re: Caring for a Konosuke HD2 and Stropping it
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 3:47 am 
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Joined: Mon May 19, 2014 1:52 am
Posts: 355
Location: Philly
I think JasonB pointed out before that the Idahone is listed as 1200 US grit so its around 3,000 grit JIS.



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 Post subject: Re: Caring for a Konosuke HD2 and Stropping it
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 4:05 am 

Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2014 4:48 am
Posts: 144
rayong wrote:If you have the DMT duo sharp then you don't need to get the strop kit. You just need to get a balsa with the magnet backing and some stropping compound and you can stick that on top of the DMT duosharp plate. I take it you got the duosharp with the base, even if you didn't the balsa is about half an inch thick which is sufficient height to strop if you do it at the corner of a table. You can get the 11" balsa with magnet back even though the duosharp is just 8", the 11" balsa is stiff enough to not bend stuck to an 8" dmt plate. As for stropping compound, something between 2 and 1 micron should be good for a polished yet little toothy edge, I use a metal polish or diamond paste depending on my mood and what I'm cutting (use separate balsa bases for different compounds). If you strop often you could keep the knife sharp a long time between sharpening sessions. Don't bother with getting a ceramic honing rod if you strop. Ceramic and other rods reduce grit on the edge to 1200 at best. Stropping maintains the high grit finish.


Duh, why didn't I think of that! I can just put them on the DuoSharp.

I have the base with it so I'll grab:

http://www.chefknivestogo.com/bamapa.html

http://www.chefknivestogo.com/holemapa.html

and someone before recommended this to me - http://www.chefknivestogo.com/didico3.html

I only use that compound on the balsa, right? And I only use the Balsa with the compound right?

This just got a bit more affordable!


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 Post subject: Re: Caring for a Konosuke HD2 and Stropping it
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 4:44 am 

Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 4:24 pm
Posts: 297
OK the horse leather strop is not stiff so you should get the 8" for that. Its shorter to use but you can manage with the 8" just fine. Use the horse butt bare with no compound after your balsa with 3 micron and you'll end up with a polished yet toothy edge that slices through tomato skin with no prob. I would add that for a 3 micron compound I use a metal polish called Autosol that is about 3 microns and its really effective. Just 3 dollars for a 120 g tube if you can find it where you are. There are other metal polishes that will also do the job.


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 Post subject: Re: Caring for a Konosuke HD2 and Stropping it
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 7:59 am 
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So inbetween uses after washing it off and drying it, I'd suggest drying it with a microfiber towel to get the last bit of water off the blade and cleaning it off fairly quickly after exposure to things that are acidic. Perhaps a bit of overkill but it sure can't hurt and there is no rush to develop a patina or mess up a nice smooth patina.

These blades come pretty well finished from the factory, so a DMT plate, and idahone or a stone coarser than about 5k would be too abrasive for maintaining the edge - assuming you don't chip it or drop it on the floor. Probably a stone finer than that for routine maintenance would suffice. It is far easier to maintain an edge than to wait a long time and have to recreate the edge. In terms of a strop something in the range of 2 microns (8k) or finer would be ideal. Personally I would use a strop at 1 micron (16k) or 0.75 microns (24k) and just use this often to keep it performing at peak efficiency. Over time the 0.75 micron strop will succeed in your knife just getting sharper and sharper with very little effort. I would consider this ideal for this knife. You could settle for a lesser solution, but if you have a fine knife, why should you? Specifically 0.75 micron CBN on a Kangaroo leather strop.



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 Post subject: Re: Caring for a Konosuke HD2 and Stropping it
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 12:34 pm 

Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2014 4:48 am
Posts: 144
So you are recommending the 1 Micron Dia Paste - http://www.chefknivestogo.com/didico.html over the 3 micron?

I can't afford the .75 CBN.

What is the difference between the horse leather strop that is 11 inches and the horse butt strop that is 8 inches. Obviously I need to go with the 8 inches for the reasons the user above gave, but is it exactly the same, just a different name?

What are the microns of the balsa wood without compound and the horse leather/butt without compounds? If one is pretty close to 1 micron then wouldn't I want the 3 micron paste? I'd assume I'd want some type of gradation (I'm thinking in terms of a pyramid or steps). Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: Caring for a Konosuke HD2 and Stropping it
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 8:40 pm 
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Rayong has a great idea. Get the 11x3 balsa strop w/magnetic backing and get some 3 micron Dia-Paste: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/didico3.html. This is roughly equivalent to about a 5-6K grit stone. Mark's video here shows how to apply it: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/haamstkit.html.


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 Post subject: Re: Caring for a Konosuke HD2 and Stropping it
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:02 pm 

Joined: Tue Jan 21, 2014 4:48 am
Posts: 144
What about the horse leather 8 inch strop? That would be a finishing strop, which I would never put compound on right?

And definitely the 3 micron Dia-Paste over the 1 Micron? I can only use one compound per Balsa right?

What is the grit of the horse leather? Balsa wood without compound? Thank you!


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 Post subject: Re: Caring for a Konosuke HD2 and Stropping it
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:09 pm 

Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2012 7:18 pm
Posts: 293
I found my HD to be pretty low maintenance. I would prep my meal, and only rinse between ingredients if if was for taste, not for care of the knife. And I'd dry off with a towel, but didn't always make sure I'd gotten every micro droplet. I never had any issues.

And this is coming from someone who is fairly regularly told that he's way too fastidious about his knives.

I agree that regular, gentle sharpening maintenance is generally better than going too long and having to do more significant sharpening work.


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 Post subject: Re: Caring for a Konosuke HD2 and Stropping it
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 11:26 pm 
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I can push cut paper with a properly sharpened 320 grit edge. All this worrying about what substrate and what grit to touch up with is pretty ludicrous. You lose those finely polished edges as soon as you start to use them. Food will degrade an edge faster than a 2000 grit rod. Starting with a properly sharpened edge is more important than how or what you use to touch up. Just do something to touch up the edge to prolong it's life rather it's using a ceramic rod, balsa with CBN or good ol' fashion newspaper. Everyone has there preferred way and nobody is wrong.



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 Post subject: Re: Caring for a Konosuke HD2 and Stropping it
PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2014 2:11 am 

Joined: Fri Dec 20, 2013 4:24 pm
Posts: 297
I'd say that board contact does most of the damage and wear on my knife regardless of whether its wood or poly.

robenco: If I had to choose between 3 micron and 1 micron I personally prefer a 3 micron over a 1 micron. Its a little toothier and slices better but its all subjective. For me a 3 micron is functional, 1 micron is slick and nice but not a big deal when it comes to cutting food. And I wouldn't worry too much if its diamond or not as long as it cuts metal. I use the horse butt bare with no compound, there is no grit rating for horse butt, neither is there for bare balsa. However, balsa is usually used with a compound because it holds it well. Horse butt is smooth so compound doesn't stay on so well. Often I use 3 micron on balsa which leaves a toothy edge, draw it over a cork from a wine bottle to deburr, then run it over bare horse butt about 2 or 3 strokes on each side to refine it a little but still leave it toothy.

Agree with Jeff, just develop a simple system that works for you and don't get too hung up about compounds and substrates.


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