Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:48 pm
Hi everyone, and thank you for all the answers!! Well, i just bought my real first carbon steel knfe with a wa-handle: a Kohetsu AS 240mm. My order didn't arrive yet, so I'm searching everything about it. I read about forcing a patina, also about oiling the handle, about the cares to the blade. The cares of the balde are very clear to me: after the use, just take out the acid of the balde and dry it with a towel. The problems are with the handle and the patina. Should I force a patina or not? What are the cares that i need to have with the wa handle?
I really apreciate all the answers, and you probably know what I am feeling right now, the first real knife...
Fri Mar 07, 2014 12:26 am
Atoms, here is a good thread about oiling handles: oiling-wa-s-t5527.html
As another option instead of regular oiling, you can also seal most handles with a product like Watco Danish Oil. I follow the directions and put 3 coats on some of my handles. It works quite well.
Good patina thread: to-force-or-not-to-force-t5589.html
Fri Mar 07, 2014 12:32 am
First congrats on your purchase, you will love it. As for oiling I use food grade mineral oil you can pick up at most any grocery store in the pharmacy dept. And I apply a occasional coat of oil every now and then to the handle. As far as forcing a patina, your knife is stainless clad and only the cutting portion of the blade will patina, unlike a full carbon knife. Just regular washing and drying of the knife when your done using it should be fine. At least it has been for mine and I have no patina on mine. Hope this helps.
Fri Mar 07, 2014 4:24 am
Basically do what hutch suggested. I have been fine with only having to apply food grade mineral oil to my handles once a every two weeks. This keeps the handle from swelling, the only time it is essential for the handle to swell is when you are making a custom handle for your knife.
Fri Mar 07, 2014 4:48 am
ATOMS <> As STEVE, linked you to, the Wa care is covered there.
Regarding your comment, "Well, i just bought my real first carbon steel knife..." Understand you really didn't. Yes, your knife has reactive steel in it, but as HUTCH, references, you bought a knife laminated in stainless. The care required by the reactive steel doesn't change per se, but the fact that you have SO LITTLE reactive steel exposed absolutely changes the dynamic as a whole.
As for patina, one retains a patina basically for one of two reasons, or both: to protect the blade and food from reactivity &/or for aesthetic benefit. As a stainless-clad blade is basically stainless, both of these factors are effectively moot. Yes, the cladding line becomes pronounced with a patina, but it's still basically a moot factor.
Don't waste your time forcing a patina on a Kohetsu. There is no functional value that is worth the effort... IMO.
Fri Mar 07, 2014 5:27 am
bnguyen93, why does a custom handle have to swell?? "the only time it is essential for the handle to swell is when you are making a custom handle for your knife."
I forced the patina on my Blue #2 Kohetsu just for looks; it may or may not cut down on reactivity, but since it went very dark, it will be harder to see the patina/reactivity. I have acid etched other blades and they vary in terms of how they take the etch and also how reactive they are with foods afterwards. I wouldn't bother etching the AS Kohetsu unless you like the look of the very dark coloring on the core.
Mineral oil works on the handles, I usually use Tung Oil since it hardens in the pores more and helps to better seal the handle w/o having to redo it constantly. It will darken the wood a bit, too. Do a few coats when you get the knife and you should be good to go for a while.
When drying the knife, make sure you get all of the little water droplets off of the blade, especially the core. Stainless is Stain Less, not Stain Proof; some people have managed to rust their stainless blades! I prefer to use paper towels for the final wipe to ensure all moisture is gone from the blade. Cloth towels I find can leave moisture on the blade easier.
Fri Mar 07, 2014 5:37 am
taz575 wrote: "Stainless is Stain Less, not Stain Proof; some people have managed to rust their stainless blades!"
My girlfriend's Ginsanko Hiromoto:
Fri Mar 07, 2014 6:01 am
Congrats on your Kohetsu! You must be so excited
For a clad blade such as the one you will be receiving soon my personal preference is to keep it shiny and patina free. No need to force a patina on it unless you like the look of it and as others mentioned above, only the exposed core steel will be affected by patina.
Handle wise, I typically wipe some mineral oil on my handles after oiling my cutting board.
Fri Mar 07, 2014 6:25 am
I stay on top of all my wipes, I have a sani bucket at my prep station, for Obvious reasons. I always have several dry bar towels and a minimum of 1 pack of the brown paper towels. Of all my blades Only 2 are fully reactive, My Shimo & Kono Fuji, which have some nice patina forming. On the Stainless Cladded blades I like how the core metal darkens, makes for nice contrast, plus it makes the noobs ask "What the hell did I do to my knives?"
Fri Mar 07, 2014 6:46 am
Kohetsu Blue #2 etches nicely
Very Very dark, contrast line and then pale grey above the cladding line!
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