So I have a 10 inch Sabatier Nogent which is relatively straight, and holds a really nice edge. I truly get why people love these things. A few swipes on a steel, and they really hold a nice edge and with almost no effort. The knife however (like many procured these days) has a slight twist beginning around the the two inch mark from the tip which makes the blade slightly bent to the right (3/16th an inch, to the right). In otherwords, if you were to sight down the spine, the edge is ever so slightly askew to one side. I have tried (gently) straightening the blade through a series of clamping and twisting. The process is done every so sligtly and over an extended time so not to break the blade. When unclamped, the memory of the steel seems to bend the knife right back to its previous form. My question is this: Can Sabatier carbon steel be gently muscled black into form? Am I better off letting sleeping dogs lie and just excepting the old blanks, because of the way they were apparenlty stored--in many cases have bend to them. It's a great knife and I am surprised how much I like the edge and the way it performs. I really don't want to push it too far and risk breakingn the blade. Thanks for any advice!
My bad. (Early minimal coffee). The twist begins about two inchs from the tip (that would be where the axis is). The overall deviation from the top of the spine to the edge is only about 3/16 (it could be a bit less). Again, if you were to look down the back of the spine to the edge, the edge kick out to the right because of the twist. It is possible that it is only about 3 mm, but it is a guess. It is easily muscled back to straight (twist removed), but it twists right back once the clamps are removed.
If the edge path is straight you may ignore the twist. Otherwise I would try to get it straight by successive sharpening sessions. Never seen yet a French carbon without a twist or bend. In most cases the performance isn't affected though. You may verify the edge path by laying the blade down and lifting the spine till the edge almost touches the board. Look at the distance between edge and board. Do the same with the other side. The tip should raise a little in both cases due to the distal taper- the blade getting more nimble near to the tip.
I in fact had seen this video. The problem with the Sabatier carbon is that it seems a bit springy. I can twist it back to form, but it seems to go right back to where it started. I guess my question is (and I know this is hard to answer without holding the knife), how much force can I apply to straighten the blade without the blade snapping? Maybe I should just let sleeping dogs lie and keep using as is as a good piece of history (60 year old + blank).