Mon Jun 24, 2013 4:45 pm
Any suggestions as to which Shapton GS stones to begin sharpening my three new Artifex 210 gyutos? They do not have the finish sharpening. I have/will have the Shapton GS 220, 500, 1000, 2000, 4000 and 6000.
Also have the Atoma 140 and Nubatama 150.
Using an Edge Pro, I also have the stock EP stones from 120 to 1000 plus the tapes.
Also, I'd appreciate suggestions as to what degree of bevel to use.
Thanks very much if you can help. I appreciate it.
Mon Jun 24, 2013 7:20 pm
Are these are AEB-L Artifex's?
If so, start with the 500 GS. If that works, great....it should. If not, step down to the 220 if you're comfortable with it.
Angle....I'm not an angle guy.....but maybe 10 degrees per side to start. If it works....great....it should. If not, put a microbevel on at 15 degrees until you have to resharpen.
Mon Jun 24, 2013 11:42 pm
If you are substantially changing the angle, use the Atoma 140 plus 150 bamboo combination. If you are maintaining the factory angle or close to it, exactly what Adam recommends. Angle would depend on the steel, but if you are new to the knife and the EP try to stick to factory type angles first time around. Probably around 15 degrees. IF you want to reprofile, start with the Atoma at 10 degrees and go through the grit sequence at 10 degrees. If for your style of usage this holds up, great. If not put a 15 degree microbevel on it.
Tue Jun 25, 2013 3:24 am
I hate to challenge the Ken on things, especially since he's got hundreds of hours of experience on me, but I think that is just why I'd suggest not going right to the Atoma 140. From what I've seen, the Atoma 140 will rip into things pretty quickly.
With my skill level, I'd start with the GS 500 and go coarser from there if it seems like you aren't getting where you need to go. The bamboo 150 is pretty aggressive, but it somehow seems "safer" than the Atoma 140. Maybe it is my feeling that while it removes metal pretty quickly, it leaves a seemingly significantly smoother finish than does the Atoma.
Tue Jun 25, 2013 4:44 am
If AEB-L start with the GS 500#, as the Atoma 140# tends to really "rough up" the shoulder of the bevel, which then needs to be taken care of....
If M390 - go Atoma.
Tue Jun 25, 2013 12:55 pm
Both of you guys are correct. I would start with the Atoma 140 just for reprofiling because of how quickly the 150 Bamboo followup converts the scratch pattern of the Atoma which, as you say is quite rough into a pattern which is easily followed up from the 150 with higher grit stones. My approach is one oriented towards getting it done. If you want to go a bit slower, skip the Atoma on the Aeb-l if this feels more comfortable to you. Especially so on single bevel knives, use the Atoma sparingly, barely generating any burr or even no burr as it can chip out the edge and switching earlier to the 150 Bamboo. The combo of Atoma plus Bamboo 150 minimizes stone wear, saving the bamboo 150 for the task of conversion primarily. Saving stone wear is less important of an issue in terms of stone usage than it is in maintaining flatness during the sharpening session. The diamond plates, even if briefly used give you a 'gold standard' of flatness for your newly created bevel.
Alternatively you could go with a 400 Atoma and convert the scratch pattern with a 320 or 400 Bamboo too, but I make the first suggestion because more people have the 140 Atoma or DMT XXC than they do the 400 Atoma. This would also give you the initial precision a plate provides too. A less aggressive approach.
In the end you will accomplish your task with any of the approaches suggested in this thread. My approach is how I would approach the problem, not something I state as how one must do it, but just a suggested approach.
Fri Jun 28, 2013 5:24 pm
Hi. Thanks for the replies. Yes, these are AEB-L, I have four of them. Is there any "secret" to using the Atoma 140 correctly with the Edge Pro? I guess I mean to keep from overdoing it or misdoing it before moving on to the Nubatama 150. Lighter than normal pressure, number of strokes, etc?
By the way, 15 degrees is what I'll be going for. I'll probably try one of the Artifexes at 13 to see if I can tell much difference. Thanks again.
Sat Jun 29, 2013 5:20 am
I find using the 140# Atoma it works well doing the final couple of passes with ever lightening pressure and plenty water - the scratch pattern then appears shallower & easier to remove with the next stone progression.
Sat Jun 29, 2013 10:50 am
I'm making an assumption here that your Atoma plate is new. If its not, plz ignore.
In my experience, when diamond plates are new, the diamonds are close to but not level. This leads to the few high ones cutting more aggressively than the rest. Because of this, I like to grind on some sacrificial metal until the scratch pattern evens out. Can take a few minutes.
Good luck with the Artifex. I'm definitely going too add one of those to my shopping cart one of these days
Sat Jun 29, 2013 7:49 pm
Very true branwell - called breaking it in...
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